Hardwood: 43,323 results found.
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Hardwood Flooring San Diego
Hardwood Flooring San Diego-Installing hardwood flooring needs careful planning and patience and should not be tried by someone with only limited amount of DIY experience. Generally speaking there are three practiced ways of installing hardwood flooring. The actual installation will be discussed under these three headings, but it will also be necessary to look at preparing the sub-floor before any work is started. Installing a Floating Hardwood Floor The surface is said to be floating because it is not directly attached to any part of the sub-floor. The boards are instead connected to each other via glued joints over a thin sheet of padding. The advantage of this fitting method is that compared to the other two it can be laid over uneven surfaces, is quick to finish and very easy to clean up. There is also a reduction in noise and moisture damage by incorporating the padding. Preparation: This is necessary before installation of the flooring can commence. Firstly you will need to accurately work out the width of the last row that will be fitted. The rule of thumb is if it is less than 1.5'' the difference will need to be distributed between the first and last rows. Regardless of the calculations though, you will probably have to cut the last row to fit. Decide on a starter wall - usually it's a good idea to choose an outside one because it is more likely to be straighter and aligned with rest of the area. You now want to measure two board widths from this wall and mark a line with some chalk through these points. As previously stated not all walls are by default straight - so some boards may need to be shaved / sanded to fit. You want a uniform surface i.e. color and grains need to compliment each other - so planning how you are going to blend the boards is vital. Installation: Concrete sub-floors are prone to attracting moisture so it is necessary to fit a thin layer of padding to act as a barrier between any dampness and your hardwood flooring. It's at the padding seams you have to be most careful - overlap them by at least 6 inches. Start with the first row, placing adhesive / glue on the ends of the boards you are joining, making sure to have the groove side facing the wall. You are then going to have to put a ¼'' spacer between the edge end of the board and the wall - this will accommodate for any expansion that may occur. From here on in you will need to apply a waterproof adhesive along the entire lower lip of the grooves and on the top surface of the tongues. On the second row of planks and all subsequent planks, apply a bead of quality moisture resistant wood glue along the entire length of the lower lip of the groove and along the top surface of the tongue, applying glue to all edges. You will want to stagger each board from the adjacent one - no less than 12 inches. Once two rows have been finished give the glue about 3 hours to dry before carrying on. The last board to be fitted will more than likely need to be cut so that it fits - don't forget that the ¼'' spacer still needs to be put down. Twelve hours drying time is recommended before any traffic is allowed. The spacers are then removed and you can start applying a base molding - nailing it to the wall and not the floor and not forgetting to leave room for expansion (¼ inch).
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